Sunday, 20 September 2009

Fragile glass palaces

In just a week of travel we came across three extraordinary hotels: the historic West Baden Springs and French Lick resorts in Indiana, and the more modern Gaylord Opryland Resort in Nashville Tennessee built in a similar style. All are notable for being built under giant domed atriums of glass making the structures appear airy, light filled, and fragile, despite the visible solid mechano metal ribs holding them aloft.
Such hotels almost define a life style: an age of wealth and pleasure, gilt-edged and showy. Flappers, Capones and Gatsbys would all have frequented these historic pleasure domes. But, almost from the moment the first two opened their doors early in the 1920s they have struggled to survive. No sooner do renovations near completion than owners fast admit to being over-extended. The rot quickly sets in, and the whole cycle of decay and renewal starts over.






We were lucky to see all of them at a peak period: they were fresh and shiny and gilded, and they truly are breathtaking. Listed on the National Register West Baden Springs and French Lick are historic and engineering landmarks. Beautiful. Gaylord Opryland similarly so, though a touch more theme-parked in its conception. 






These days they are not hugely expensive to stay, or eat in. They need the general public, now, to help them pay their way, so the prices have become flexible and competitive. 






Hours you can spend wandering through Gaylord's three massive atriums, ogling nine vast acres of indoor air-conditioned tropical gardens, filled with rock-hugging waterfalls, Delta riverboats meandering down their own watercourse, colourlit fountains dancing, all a glittering fantasy.






Indoors. Air-conditioned. All nine acres. Each month the power bills alone must have the owners turn a whiter shade of pale. Fragile, these palaces. How can they forever keep the coffers stoked? 







































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































West Baden Springs historic glass atrium












































The atrium was once the largest in the world 













































































Lobby at French Lick which offers mineral baths and gambling, and a $17 million expansion 





















Elegant lighting 



Fountain at French Lick















Indoor boating under a canopy of glass at Gaylords




















Glitter, bling and twinkling lights


























































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